Out to eat: Miyako Sushi & Steakhouse

Danny Chen serves scallops from the hibachi grill at Miyako. (Credit: Carrie Cochran | Metromix)

Goofy chefs, big flames, delectable sushi, hands-off servers: Miyako is doing the hibachi grill thing right.

Sushi, I gather, is secondary here, something I've noticed at similar establishments. It's a nice touch, but sushi merely compliments the hot meals, while everyone "woos!" as the hibachi chefs flip cooking utensils, raw meats, veggies, eggs and rice.

The atmosphere

We wait at the host stand as a young woman scans the reservation list. To our right: laughing, clapping, thank yous and head bows. Our left: HDTVs, quiet chatter and dim lighting.

A family of six joins us around a hibachi, and before long the youngest boy points out the giant aquarium filled with orange and black fish and cloudy turquoise water. In front of it, two chefs tend the sushi bar, entertaining the couples crowded around it.

Indeed, Miyako was busy.

The food

We pick the Dinner for Two ($52). What a no-brainer: It includes a California roll, shrimp spring rolls served with sweet and sour sauce, and hibachi chicken, shrimp, filet mignon, lobster tail and mixed vegetables (zucchini, broccoli, etc.). And your choice of red bean and green tea ice cream!

Still, I start the night with an appetizer and beer. (After all, this is my first trip to Miyako.) A few minutes later, I'm pairing Ika Maruyaki ($7) - baby squid - with a tall glass of Sapporo ($7), while my girlfriend sips a Kirin Ichiban ($7).

"I'm not adventurous enough to try that," the server says, setting the sliced creature before me. (Is she calling me Andrew Zimmern? I'm flattered.) After trying a few thick slices of the body, I'm happy to report that the baby squid is no more bizarre than shrimp. I adore the complimentary Teriyaki sauce because it softens the squid's leathery coat.

The drinks

Domestic beer or the wide selection of wine? No, thanks. We decide to stick with our 22-ounce bottles of the aforementioned beer. Later, we wash down the hibachi heaven with a water.

Why you should go

Unless you bring a party of eight, you will more than likely share a hibachi with other patrons. We loved watching a little girl fix her eyes on the chef's utensil trickery.

She did cling to her seat when the master of the grill entertained us with a high flame, but, after a little bit of mom's consoling, she leaned in again, excited about the chicken and fried rice coming her way.

Menu sampler

Appetizer: Agedashi Tofu ($5)

Salad: Miyako Fusion Salad ($11)

Sushi bar: Salmon Toro Tartar ($9)

Entree: Miyako Tempura  - cold-water lobster tail, shrimp, scallop and crab ($23)

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