Out to eat: Hugo

A roasted Angus sirloin steak on a bed of greens at Hugo. (Credit: Ernest Coleman | Metromix)

We knew we were going to like Hugo as soon as our server approached the table. And not just because he made for some pleasant eye candy. This guy knew his menu, every item, down to the sauce. When we hesitated on our drink choices, he emerged with glasses of wine that were just what we wanted. When we questioned whether we'd like a certain dish, he gave his promise we would - or he'd whisk it away and have the kitchen whip us up a quick replacement.

No need. During this meal, we'd be sending nothing back.

The mood: We hit up Hugo on a Tuesday night. The place was surprisingly crowded, perhaps because of Restaurant Week, its tables filled with couples on dates and co-workers still in their business suits. The cozy dining room was bathed in warm light. We were a little late for our reservation but were seated without hesitation - and with plenty of smiles.

The food: Hugo bills its fare as "sophisticated Southern cuisine," which basically means you can throw all your Southern-food stereotypes out the window. Scallops are served with a delicate truffle sauce and cauliflower puree beside a heap of arugula. The Hugo salad surprises with its bed of potatoes beneath a pile of Romaine lettuce and a smoky vinaigrette.

The main course, though, presented a problem. I looked at the list of entrées - fish, hanger steak, grilled pork loin, roast lamb, chicken, rabbit, shrimp n'grits - and felt a twinge of guilt.

I'd invited a vegetarian to the meal.

Server to the rescue: He asked my friend about her dietary preferences and returned from the kitchen with good news. Chef had just whipped up a batch of butternut squash risotto. She lied and said she loved risotto, and soon it was in front of her: a big bowl of creamy, slightly spicy risotto with broccoli rabe and generous hunks of squash.

Another surprise: My friend actually liked it. She'd later say it was the best risotto she's eaten.

I ordered the restaurant's signature shrimp n'grits, despite having little affection for either shrimp or grits. I ended up cleaning my plate. The shrimp were fat and juicy, and the grits had such a creamy texture and smoky flavor that I almost would have mistaken them for something else.

The sweets: After fawning over our meals, we didn't really love the dessert. We split the restaurant's twist on strawberry shortcake: a shortcake covered in white chocolate accompanied by a strawberry shake and a river of mint sauce. I guess we were supposed to pour the shake onto the cake and then dip the pieces into the mint, but that seemed awfully fussy. I just slurped down the shake and ate the cake.

Why you should go: Hugo's food is surprising and rich without being heavy, and it's served by people who know what they're doing - and actually seem to like doing it. It's easy to spend a lot of money here, but as you savor your first mouthful of creamy grits, you realize it's worth it.

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