Out to eat: Dutch's Larder

Chef Andrew Lane made this Prosciutto and fresh Mozzarella sandwich at Dutch's Larder. (Credit: Tony Jones | Metromix)

Dutch’s has been an institution in East Hyde Park for years, first as a walk-up pony keg selling a wide variety of beer from their open-air dock, and then it grew into a cozy beer and wine bar with rotating tap selections and knowledgeable bartenders.

And now, since late spring, they’ve grown again, taking over a shuttered Starbucks to add a bodega/deli/charcuterie serving lunch and dinner six days a week. Erica and I had enjoyed a beer at Dutch’s on occasion before, so we were eager to see if their food menu matched their impressive drink offerings.

The vibe: The first thing that catches your eye at the Larder is their brightly lit, expertly arranged, deli cases. They have all sorts of cured meats, olives and cheeses deliciously on display. They also offer a large amount of unique non-perishable grocery items in case you needed to pick up Spanish anchovies or Indiana-sourced marinara.

There aren’t many actual places to sit inside the Larder itself—save for a couple of high counters/bars that could seat about 8 or so. But you really have the whole run of Dutch’s. We ordered our food at the Larder’s counter, and grabbed a seat on the patio under an umbrella.

The food: Their menu draws from their wide selection of artisan deli offerings. On the night we visited, they were trying out a couple of specials – a hamburger and a tomato/pepper bread soup—in – addition to their menu offerings. We started with an order of olives ($8): a marinated assortment with garlic, orange and other herbs. They were delicious, and impossible to stop eating.

Erica ordered the soup special – what they called Papa Pomodoro ($6), a mix of gazpacho, bruschetta and a sous-vide egg (an egg cooked a really long time) – which she absolutely loved.

I ordered the Smoking Goose pastrami sandwich ($9), which was served warmly pressed between two thin pieces of ciabatta-style bread, manchego cheese, Dijon mustard, and onion marmalade. It was a great take on a typical deli sandwich, and unlike places that pile the meat high between bread, this was crafted to show off the delicacy of the artisan pastrami. Each bite created a tasty combination of slightly smoky/slightly salty meat mixed with the sweet marmalade and tangy mustard. It came with an orzo pasta salad with peppers and feta.

Erica and I split a selection of four chacuterie ($20), a chef’s selection of meats and cheeses. We were rewarded with a neatly arranged piles of two types of very thinly sliced, cured meats (sopresseto and prosciutto) and two types of cheese served on a wooden cutting board. The selections rotate and are chosen to pair together, and the whole thing is served with crostini, Dijon mustard, fig jam, and hazelnut honey. It was a perfect meal for sharing and a delectable and fun experiment.

The drinks: The beer and wine options are almost infinite at Dutch’s. They have a huge selection available on their beer dock, and eight rotating drafts, in addition to an enormous selection of wines by the bottle and glass, and they even offer some spirits as well. Erica ordered a sauvignon blanc ($7) and I went with the Anchor Steam on draft ($4).

The verdict: Dutch’s Larder is an excellent addition to a venerable bar and beer-seller. Just because the food is served at a bar, doesn’t make it bar food. Yes their food goes great with their alcohol selections, but you don’t need to be drinking to enjoy their menu. I can see the Larder becoming known for its food selections just as much as Dutch’s is already known for its beer and wine options. It’s a transcendent take on the deli experience, and worth a visit for lunch or dinner.