Raising the Bar: Dilly Deli

Owner/wine director Chuck Warinner offers up a glass of rose at Dilly Deli. (Credit: David Sorcher)

It is quite possible that the "Mariemont Strand" is one of the most charming areas around. With its uniform white and brown buildings and its collection of little cafes and boutiques, it looks like a quaint village from long ago. In the midst of this charming stretch is the Dilly Deli, a cafe keeping in tone with the town.

Saturday afternoon is the best time to give the Deli a try. It offers the normal lunch menu as well as the chance to sample some of the wine selection. For just 50 cents a sample, you can try four or five wines available in the store.

I took my mom out to lunch on a recent bright and sunny Saturday. I tried all four offerings: a "diet" Champagne, a pink Malbec Syrah, a dry red from Argentina and Choya, a Japanese wine that has tonic water and ice added for a refreshing twist. The Choya was by far my favorite, while my mom liked the Champagne (as she should; the bottle cost $60!)

But while the wine was good, the food was better. I ordered a Caesar side salad ($6) and the half grape-pecan chicken salad sandwich ($6). My mom chose the classic turkey club, which came with all the proper fixings ($8).

The ambiance of the place is almost as good as what it offers. On display are a variety of spices, teas, salsas and dips to try. The alcohol selection is fantastic for how small the shop is. There is a whole room across from the deli dedicated to wine and hundreds of choices from German Rieslings to Italian Chiantis. The prices range from about $7 a bottle to more than $100 a bottle.

Behind the deli, away from the restaurant, is a pretty substantial amount of beer, too. Locally brewed beers are available as well as those rare brews that can be tough to find.